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Saturday 21 February 2015

Make your Facebook account safer

1. Set up login notifications

You can set Facebook up to send you an alert every time your account is accessed from an unknown computer or other device. This can be a handy way of receiving a warning should someone gain unauthorised access to your account.
Again, click the arrowhead at the top right of any page and choose ‘Settings’.

Choose ‘Security’ from the menu on the left hand side.
‘Login notifications’ is the top option available so click ‘Edit’.

Choose from receiving either an email and/or a text message/push alert. Click ‘Save Changes’. Login notifications are now active on your account.

2. Turn on login approvals

You can choose to have an extra layer of security when accessing your account from an unknown browser. Facebook will send a code to your phone which you will then need to use to login.

Click the arrowhead at the top right of any page and choose ‘Settings’, then ‘Security’ from the left hand menu.

Tick the box that says ‘Require a security code to access my account from unknown browsers’. Facebook will then take you though the process of setting up login approvals so click on ‘Get Started’ to begin.
Once you have set up login approvals you will only need to enter a code when you try to login from a new device. It is a feature that makes it that much harder for a hacker to gain access to your account and as such is well worth enabling.
Note: if your browser clears your history on exit, or has private browsing switched on, you may need to enter a code every time you log in.
These are just a few of the quick and simple measures you can take to protect your Facebook account.

3. Make sure only your friends can see your timeline posts

You don’t want strangers checking you out on Facebook (presumably) so make sure you limit who can view your Facebook timeline.
While the key elements of your profile (name, picture, cover photo, etc.) are viewable by everyone, many other aspects of your timeline can be blocked from prying eyes.
First, make sure all your future posts are locked down. Click on the padlock icon on the top toolbar (on the right hand side), then click ‘Who can see my stuff?’.
Under ‘Who can see my future posts’, choose from:
  • Public (which obviously means everyone)
  • Friends
  • Only me
  • Custom (which allows you to limit some of your friends from seeing your posts)

Pick what’s best for you, but make sure ‘Public’ isn’t selected. Whatever you choose will then become the default every time you post an update (though you still have the option of selectively changing this for each individual update you post in the future).
Now, make sure you limit the audience for your previous posts. Click the arrowhead on the top toolbar (on the right hand side). Choose ‘Settings’.

Click Privacy on the left hand menu, and under ‘Who can see my stuff’, click ‘Limit past posts’. From here you can change all your past post visibility to ‘Friends’.

It’s also worth checking out the visibility of the stuff listed under the ‘About’ section of your profile.
On your timeline, click ‘Update info’ (at the bottom of your cover photo) and then click ‘Edit’ next to the area you wish to change the visibility for.

Once again, choose from the options of ‘Public’, ‘Friends’, ‘Only me’ or a custom list of people.

4. Control who can contact you on Facebook

Click on the padlock icon on the top toolbar (on the right hand side), then click ‘Who can contact me’.
By default this is set up as ‘Basic Filtering’ to allow friends and people you may know the opportunity to send you a message.
If you want only friends to be able to contact you, you can increase the filtering on your inbox. Other messages will then be diverted to your ‘other’ folder which you can access from the Messages screen.
To do this, click ‘Strict Filtering’ under ‘Whose messages do I want filtered into my Inbox?’

From this area of the screen you can also limit who is able to send you a friend request, choosing between everyone or just friends of your friends.

5. Control who can discover your profile based on your email address and/or telephone number

If you wish to control who can find you based on the email address or telephone number you used to sign up Facebook then you can do so by first clicking on the arrowhead at the top right of any page and then clicking ‘Settings’.

Next, select ‘Privacy’ from the menu on the left hand side of the page and look for the ‘Who can look me up?’ option.
You will notice that there are separate settings for both your email address and telephone number.
Click ‘Edit’ next to each to choose Friends, Friends of Friends or Everyone.

Tuesday 17 February 2015

Cracking Phone Locks Of Samsung Mobiles (NOT ANDROIDS)


How To Crack Samsung ChAmp Ph0ne Lock??
Here iS a The New Trick To Crack Phone Lock,
Below Is The Procedure-
1.First Restart The Phone.
2.Now When It Will Ask For Password Then Click On SOS Call And Then Press And Hold Lock Key To Unlock The Keypad.
[d0nt End The Call]
3.Now Just Type *2767*3855#
And It Will Get Executed Without Asking Real Password wink emoticon
4.Thats It You Cracked Password And Now You Can Change The Password ,

How to configure Androrat

Androrat (RAT For Android)
Androrat is a client/server application developed in Java Android for the client side and in Java/Swing for the Server.The name Androrat is a mix of Android and RAT (Remote Access Tool).The goal of the application is to give the control of the android system remotely and retrieve informations from it.
 Features
  • Get contacts (and all theirs informations)
  • Get call logs
  • Get all messages
  • Location by GPS/Network
  • Monitoring received messages in live
  • Monitoring phone state in live (call received, call sent, call missed..)
  • Take a picture from the camera
  • Stream sound from microphone (or other sources..)
  • Streaming video (for activity based client only)
  • Do a toast
  • Send a text message
  • Give call
  • Open an URL in the default browser
  • Do vibrate the phone
  1. You have to  make a id on Here and create a host.
  2. You need to open port you want to use.  To do that Open Control panel > Network & Internet > Network & Sharing centre Then click on see full map option Right-Click on the Gateway or router>Properties In general tab, Go to settings , Click on add In Description of service , Write Androrat Now you have to check your ip, To Do this , open command prompt, type ipconfig, Scroll To ethernet Adapter local area connection,and note down the ipv4 address Now come back to Add window , in the name or ip address type the ipv4 address you have noted Now in the external & internal port number , type 81 , tcp should be selected, click ok Now click on Add button again…Now in Description , write androrat 1 In the name or ip address, type the ipv4 address you have noted Now in the external & internal port number , type 81 , udp should be selected, click ok.
  3. Now extract the file , Open AndroRat Binder.exe.
  4. Go to No-ip tab and fill your information & click on update.
  5. Go to Build Tab.
  6. In IP section, type the hostname  you have created by no-ip.
  7. In port section , type 81.
  8. In apk title ,Type any title you want.
  9. Check the hidden box to hide the apk from mobile’s app drawer.
  10. Click on Go.
  11. Now you will see the apk with the title you have given in the extracted folder.
  12. Now install that apk to any android mobile phone.
  13. You will find a folder named Androrat in the extracted files.
  14. Open Androrat>Androrat.jar (you should have java installed in your pc to open it).
  15. Now click on server> Select port and enter 81, click ok & restart it.
  16. Now , as soon as the android client is online , you will find it on the jar file ……select any server online.
  17. Enjoy :) 
18. download from this link>>> www.androrat.com

how to make USB bootable

Step1: Create Bootable USB Drive:
  1. Start PowerISO (v4.8 or newer version, download here).
  2. Insert the USB drive you intend to boot from.
  3. Choose the menu "Tools > Create Bootable USB Drive". The "Create Bootable USB Drive" dialog will popup. If you are using Windows Vista or Windows 7 / 8 operating system, you need confirm the UAC dialog to continue.
  4. In "Create Bootable USB Drive" dialog, click "..." button to open the iso file of Windows 7 or Windows 8.
  5. Select the correct USB drive from the "Destination USB Drive" list if multiple USB drives are connected to the computer.
  6. Choose the proper writing method. "USB-HDD" is recommended.
  7. Click "Start" button to start creating windows 7 / 8 bootable USB drive.
If no errors occurred in the above process, you should now be all set to setup Windows 7 / 8 from USB drive!

Step 2: Configuring the BIOS:
You should now reboot and go into the BIOS configuration to boot from USB. Instructions for doing so wildly from system to system, but generally entail the following:
  1. Reboot the system.
  2. While booting (before Windows starts loading), get into the BIOS configuration screen by hitting something like F1, F2, Delete or Escape. Hotkey instructions are generally provided on the screen.
  3. Go to the section that contains your boot devices.
  4. With your USB drive plugged in, the USB drive should be listed. If it isn’t, your system might not support booting from USB. Assuming that it is supported (as is the case with virtually all modern hardware), promote your USB drive to the primary boot device.
  5. Exit from the BIOS configuration, saving all changes.
If you’re completely new to BIOS configuration, BIOS for Beginners over at Tom’s Hardware might be a good primer. Be aware though, that you can seriously screw up your system by providing incorrect settings!

Step 3: Booting and setup windows 7 / Windows 8 from USB drive:
Assuming that you properly configured your BIOS and your USB drive supports booting,  Windows 7 / 8 setup should now load. Depending on the speed of your USB drive, this may take a while.
If it isn’t working, then double-check the following before making a scene:
  • Is your BIOS properly configured for booting from the USB device? (Is the USB device listed and does it have top priority?)
  • Have you correctly prepared the USB drive in step one? (Restart the procedure.)
  • Does your USB drive properly support being booted from? (Try another one!)
Note: The above guide works with Windows Vista / Windows 7 / Windows 8 only. 

It's cheap and easy to make your own portable hard drive from an old PC drive

What to do with the old hard drive you just removed from your laptop or desktop? Youcould just keep it around as a spare—but installing it into an external enclosure and effectively transforming it into a portable hard drive would be far more useful. You'll be able to access all of the files on the drive at a moment’s notice, but you could also use it for backups or simply transferring data between systems.

Enclosure types

enclosureMARCO CHIAPPETTA
Enclosures that can turn any 2.5” hard disk or solid state drive into an external USB drive are widely available and affordable too.
There are a slew of external enclosures available for hard drives, and pretty much all of them are dirt-cheap—less than $10, in some instances, with the most feature-filled models topping out around $40. You’ll find everything from simple aluminum sleeves to larger multi-drive docks that can connect to a variety of different ports. USB enclosures are by far the most common, but eSATA, Thunderbolt, and Firewire enclosures are available too.
External drive enclosures are fairly simply devices. For example, they can take a standard 2.5-inch SATA drive and bridge the SATA interface to USB, or another interface of your choosing. Some enclosures are sealed and turn your formerly internal drive into a portable storage device, while others function as more of a dock, where drives may be connected at will. 
External enclosures are not just for hard drives, either. An old SSD would be a perfect candidate for a high-speed external drive—especially since it probably cost a pretty penny. The USB interface found in most enclosures may not be able to exploit all of the performance benefits of an SSD, but an SSD in an external enclosure equipped with a USB 3.0 port will still shift files around at a speedy rate.

Prep work

partsMARCO CHIAPPETTA
Most external drive enclosures include a rigid shell and a small circuit board, which is essentially a SATA to USB bridge adapter.
There are a few things to consider before installing your drive into an external enclosure. If the drive is encrypted, for example, you may want to re-connect it to the original system to access it and back up any important data on the drive. Even if the drive is not encrypted, it’s probably a good idea to back everything up beforehand.
On very rare occasions, compatibility issues may prevent you from accessing a drive installed into an external enclosure without re-formatting it. Most of the external enclosures available today, however, feature mature technology and are fairly reliable. Regardless, it couldn’t hurt to back things up—just in case.

The assembly process

Installing a drive into an external enclosure is usually very easy. For the purposes of this article, I picked up a Kingwin ATK-25U3-BK USB 3.0 enclosure on NewEgg for about $27, but the assembly process should be similar for all hard drive enclosures.
assembleMARCO CHIAPPETTA
Assembling the Kingwin ATK-25U3-BK couldn’t be any easier. The drive plugs right into the included circuit board, then slides right into the housing, and four tiny screws hold it all together.
The Kingwin ATK-25U3-BK includes all of the cables necessary to connect it to a PC, along with a simple carrying case. Installing a drive into the enclosure required only one tool—a small Phillips-head screwdriver. I had to remove four small screws from each corner of the enclosure and slide out a small circuit board (the section with the connectors attached).
The circuit board features a bridge that converts the SATA interface to USB 3.0. There’s also a thin, transparent protective shield that protects the bottom of the drive being installed, which is where a 2.5-inch hard drive’s controller board is typically exposed. The drive slides right onto the small circuit board; simply line up the male/female SATA data and power connectors and push them together.
Once the drive is connected to the converter board, the whole assembly slides into the enclosure. Tighten the screws that hold the enclosure together, and it's ready to go.
plug inMARCO CHIAPPETTA
After stationing your hard drive in the enclosure, all you’ve got left to do is plug it into an available USB port on your PC. Easy!
To use your new external drive, all you should have to do is plug it into an available USB port on your PC. Some enclosures will include two USB cables (as ours did)—one for data and the other for supplemental power. If the enclosure you choose requires two cables, connect them both to ensure reliable operation. Many drives will work with just the single data cable attached, because it can provide some power. Under load, however, a single USB port may not be able to provide enough juice, and the drive could drop from the system.
You needn't retire or recycle old hard drives. Put it into an external drive enclosure, and you can keep the data with you or use the drive as portable storage. In the throwaway culture of high tech, this solution's a keeper. 

Slow computer? 10 ways to make it run faster







1) Uninstall unused programs
New PCs come with a whole load of programs you will never use, and you probably don’t even know they exist.
Some programs even run background processes when you load your computer, even though you are not using them.
To remove all these pointless programs, open the Control Panel’s Programs and Features page, and have a trawl through the list of installed software. Uninstall those that you do not need, while being careful to leave programs your computer’s hardware needs (typically their publisher will be listed as the PC maker’s name or as Microsoft).
If you are still unsure about which programs to use, try a third-party called such as PC Decrapifier – it’s free for non-commercial use – which should tell you which programs you don’t want or need. 


2) Automatically delete temporary files
Temporary files amass on your computer through everyday tasks and can remain on your hard disk, slowing the computer down. Getting rid of these files, including your internet history and cookies, should give you a larger amount of hard disk space, speeding up your PC.
To do this, open “My Computer”, and select your local drive (usually C:\). Select the “Windows” folder and then open the folder titled “Temp”.
Use your mouse to right-click on the folder, and in the “View” options, choose “Details”. Once this is done, select all the files that are older than the current date and press the delete key. Then go to the Recycle Bin on your desktop and empty it. 


3) Install a solid state drive
Hard drives are the biggest cause of slow speeds and especially slow startup speeds on your PC.
While they are not cheap, installing a solid state drive, which have extremely fast read times, can speed up your startup considerably. 
4) More hard drive storage
Even if you make sure to regularly clean out all your temporarily files, if your hard drive becomes 85 per cent full, it’s going to affect your computer’s speed.
If you regularly film videos or use your PC for recording television, then you will want as big a hard drive as you can get, upwards of 1TB in size.
Here is a handy video on how to install your new hard drive.

5) Prevent unnecessary start ups
This method will primarily affect how long it takes for your laptop or PC to startup, but often many of the programs which are launched on startup continue to run and use up your computer’s memory.
To do this, click “Start” and “Run”. In “Run”, type “msconfig” and then press enter. You should then see the “Startup” tab, with all the programs ticked the ones which will load upon your computer starting up. There is a good chance the list will contain a number of programs you might not have realised were running on your computer during startup, or even at all.
You can either manually deselect those which you do not want to load, or click “Disable All” and then select those you want to run, such as particularly important programs like anti-virus software.
Another trick can be removing all the unnecessary fonts Windows loads. Windows 7 loads more than 200 fonts on startup which can slow down the speed at which it boots up. Go to the Start Menu’s search box, search for the Fonts folder and check off all the fonts you don’t need, and click the “Hide” button in the toolbar.
6) More RAM
RAM, which stands for Random Access Memory, is the temporary storage memory used by your computer and is in use when tasks are being executed by different programs. Therefore, the more programs you use, the more RAM you need, and the slower your computer will be if you don’t have enough.
A clear indicator of not having enough RAM is if your computer slows down every time you try and process large files, or it freezes will carrying out several different actions at once.
You can either add more RAM with an extra memory stick or two, or buy getting completely new memory if all the slots are taken. There is theoretically no upper limit on the amount of RAM that you can have with a 64-bit operating system, but in practical terms 4GB is more than enough for most people.
For a handy guide on what kind of RAM you need, look here, or watch the video below on how it should be installed.
You can also find out how many RAM your computer is using in the Task Manager’s Performance tab (hit Ctrl-Shift-Esc to bring this up). 
7) Run a disk defragment
Sounds complicated, but this is basically a way of reconfiguring how your hard drive stores information for maximum efficiency.
Go to “My Computer”, right-click on the hard drive and select “Properties”. Under the “Tools” tab there should be an option to “Defragment Now”.
8) Run disk clean up
Windows also includes a built-in disk de-cluttering tool called “Disk Cleanup”.
It searches through the system for unnecessary large files such as temporary Internet files, program installers, and so on.
Open Disk Cleanup by clicking “Start > All Programs > Accessories > System Tools > Disk Cleanup”. 
9) Give your computer a static IP
Another trick for speeding up your computer loading time is to give your computer a static IP address that never changes.
When you startup your computer, it spends a decent amount of time asking the network for an IP address. Not only does having a static IP address make the network easier to manage (particularly if you have several devices using the same network), but it also cuts time off your startup.
To do this, visit the “Network and Sharing Center”, and select “Change adapter settings”. Right click on your local adapter and select “Properties”. You then need to highlight what should be titled “Internet Protocoal Version 4 (TCP/IPv4), and click the properties button.
In “Use the following IP address” enter in the correct IP, Subnet mask, and Default gateway which correspond with your network setup.
Make sure to check “Validate settings upon exit” so Windows can find any problems with the addresses you entered.
To find out what your IP, subnet mask and default gateway are, go to “Start” and then “Run”, and type in “cmd”. At the command prompt, type “IPCONFIG/All” and it should come up, as shown below.

10) Hoovering out the dust
Again, this sounds a tad radical, but dust is your computer’s enemy. It can impede airflow, which is vital to keeping your computer’s temperature down, and if your computer is overheating, it is likely it will slow down its performance to cope.
(Incidentally, overheating will also make it impossible to use programs such as Skype, because for the person on the other end of the conversation it constantly sounds like an aeroplane is taking off).
If you have a desktop or a laptop, you can take off the computer’s exterior and use a hoover on a low power setting to try and remove some of the dust. Make sure your computer has been switched off for at least 30 minutes and that all cables are disconnected before starting your clean.
Use your hoover with a small attachment, and try either the reverse setting to blow air into the vents and push the dust out, or use its standard suction to try and extract some of the dust.